Adventure and Life in the Arctic

The Other Side


In all its beauty and it wonder, sounds like some sort of documentary starter here, seriously though, Alaska is a beautiful place.

Buuut, it has its problems too, and they aren’t small ones, Alaska has the highest suicide rate among teenagers than any other state in the country, high depression, incarceration, alcoholism, behavioral health problems, insane cost of living. Hard to think of all that in a place where just saying the name brings up images of pristine wilderness. Truth is, its a lovely front, as with any relationship, you never know what goes on behind closed doors until you’re the one that’s in the relationship. That is what I have discovered about my relationship with Alaska, its a completely different person behind closed doors. Oh, and it’s a pretty big place too, the culture varies from area to area, just like whole separate states. In fact Alaska is so big you could fit Texas, California, and Montana in it.alaskasize One of the things that gets you is the light cycle, believe it or not, the highest depression and suicide rates on the North Slope occur at the onset of the never ending daylight. The first three weeks, they say. Really though, it’s pretty much light out all the time now, even when the sun is below the horizon, it doesn’t get dark. So sunset at 11:07 pm means nothing to me accuweather, thank you very much. I didn’t mind the dark so much, or the cold, but the light, its a killer, literally.


The good ol’ AC (Alaska Commerical Company), the heavier something is the more it costs, we don’t buy juice like this anymore, too expensive.

The food, the prices here in Barrow are the worst, milk cashing in at $10.00/gallon. I bought strawberries the other day, $7.99/lb, I could have bought a cantaloupe for the screaming deal of $9.98. Gone are the days of running into the grocery store every night. We order dry goods in bulk and have them cargo shipped here. Thank goodness we are living in itinerant quarters, we spend so much just to eat healthy here.

The processed foods are the cheapest in town and most convenient, especially if things like running water, even power are an issue. Obesity, dental disease, and diabetes are the hallmark medical conditions of the Slope. This town runs off of Coke, Cheetos and Marb Reds. I don’t want to be here on the day they run out of Coke, Cheetos and Marb Reds.

In 2012, Anchorage was rated the 2nd most dangerous city for women in the country. The crime rates here can be obscene, in all parts of the state. The state has a 15% Native population, Barrow is actually about 65% and the North Slope as a whole a bit larger than that. Unfortunately, violent crime, substance abuse and suicide are about 3 times higher in the Native community than that of any other racial group. This is not to say that the other racial groups within those communities do not also contribute. I think like minds will flock together regardless of race, and in these tiny, rural communities, it takes a special couple of kinds of people to get by and all figure out a way to survive, whether its positive or negative. I watched a play called WinterBear last week written about the struggles facing the Native community, it was pretty moving.

The isolation in itself can have pretty detrimental effects on people, in turn causing people to do things they wouldn’t normally do. There are many social services that are unavailable to support the people in the tiny isolated villages throughout the state and in turn the people of those communities may not have access to care they need. Even my health insurance helps foot the bill for off-slope medical care, that’s how limited the services are here.   Many homes still have water delivery, some don’t even have running water, which means HoneyBuckets, and in arctic terms, that means a 5 gallon bucket with a plastic bag in it.

Strong enough to hold 250lbs!

Strong enough to hold 250lbs!

Some villages don’t even have grocery stores, relying on Bush Mailer orders delivered by bush planes. No paved roads in many places, much of the state is accessible by air only, some places can be connected by a dangerous ice road in the winter. I want to drive that road before I leave this state.  Certainly no fast food, internet that invokes memories of 9th grade, having to wait until my parents were off the phone to dial up, no stoplights, the road is shared by snow machines and atv’s of all varieties. There is even a delay in the phones when I talk on the phone, emphasizing even more how far off the beaten path I am.


Sampling from an Alaska Village Dump for possible toxins leaching into ground water.

There’s not even recycling in Barrow!  In fact, waste in general is a huge problem in many of the villages, check out The Alaska Water and Sewer Challenge. It drives me nuts to throw away everything, there are dumpsters about every 20 feet along the roads and its free! Somehow, I still have to look at a pile of garbage that is accumulating between my building and my neighbors. (I don’t think it’s the drunk one that I have to occasionally assist in calling a cab) I’m pretty sure who it is, the dirty diapers are a pretty good clue.

This place is rough, all of it, and in a way that’s what makes it so beautiful. The people are rough, the weather is rough, the terrain is rough. For some reason though, once Alaska has you, it has you for life, and you’ll always come  back.


2 thoughts on “The Other Side

  1. Wow. I saw a promo for a reality show about Alaska and the people wanting to live there seemed as if they were looking forward to the isolation.
    I was not aware of the suicide rates. I naively thought that this was the case in places that experience few hours of daylight.
    Your mention of high prices, and healthy food being more expensive reminds me of life here in the .Caribbean sometimes. It’s not always rosy.
    Looking forward to more of your posts.

    • Unfortunately, the extreme isolation isn’t for everyone, but I do have to say I don’t miss traffic, or having my son ask me for fast food every few seconds because we pass by 30 places on the way home. I think the teenagers and the young adults have the roughest time with it. Us older folk choose to be here, so we tend to enjoy a lot of it, I have my days when I curse this place up and down too!

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