We went for a walk on the Arctic Ocean the other day, something that is both exciting and incredibly scary at the same time. I also got the chance to bring the dog sled team out onto the sea ice.
One thing I have learned since moving here: ALWAYS bring a gun. You never know what you could encounter and a little human would make quite a tasty snack for the largest predator of the arctic, the polar bear. My boyfriend decided to go out on the ice alone, without a gun, and a dying cell phone. I wasn’t happy, they don’t just stay on the ice, and its kinda asking for it to do that. He, in turn, has earned himself the nickname “BearWalker” and unfortunately it is not a term of endearment. Most people here in Barrow he has told think he has a screw or two loose.
When he told his father he thought he could out run a bear if it was coming, his father quickly responded with: A Polar Bear can run from 20-30 mph for a sustained 1-2 hours, Usain Bolt, the fastest human in the world can run 22 mph for 100 yards. Dad: 1, Son: big fat 0.
Hmmm……..Still think you can outrun that Polar Bear, babe? I have to admit, he got some pretty stunning pictures, so maybe it was worth it? Only worth it because he came back alive though. Lesson learned in any case, I hope.
One thing that I didn’t think would be uncommon when moving here, was snow and icicles, but they are, because it is so damn dry all the time. It doesn’t snow, there are no icicles, its just cold and it sucks. Right now though, right now, it is both warm enough to snow and for icicles to form and it is stunningly beautiful.
There is this really cool phenomenon that happens when it starts warming up here, the sea ice moves away and towards the shore all the time and the landscape is always changing. You can tell how far away the edge of the ice is by something called a ‘water sky.’ The clouds over open water are much grayer than those over ice, you can tell open water (and warmer weather) is coming when you begin to see the water sky. In this picture its the thin gray strip across the horizon, that is where the open water starts, its also a good way to keep your bearings in the ‘sea of white.’
I love mushing, everything about it, the excitement and the joy from the dogs, the quiet concentration when they get in stride. The absolute peace when you are out with the team and worried about nothing else. I don’t care what people say, its not cruel, the dogs get so much joy from it, they are given a job and they love it. To not run a mushing dog is cruel. PETA can shove it because I’m betting they have never actually seen the love and dedication that a musher devotes to his team, let alone taken a ride on a sled or spent a day caring for a team. I myself participated in the steroid testing team for the Iditarod this year (a post will be up soon) I can speak from experience that these dogs are loved, the amount of time, effort, money and love that goes into mushing is astounding.
Mushing is a very expensive hobby, and therefore there is only one team in town, I am lucky enough to know the owner of the team and to have worked with all of his lovely dogs.
I love this sled, no nails, no metal, except for the brake and the hook, all lashed together, built to go over the hills and crevasses of the sea ice and bumpy tundra, the sled almost molds to the terrain as it moves.
Mushing in between the houses and down the roads, notice how the houses are all on stilts? Its to keep the permafrost on the tundra from melting due to the heat of the home.
I love that sled dogs are not your typical huskies that come to mind for most people, they are mutts, bred for speed, endurance, agility. I would love to build a team of Barrow dogs for sledding someday, none sturdier than these dogs. You can bet they are fast too, I know, its part of my job to catch them when they’re running loose!